Bondhu

Bondhu is the Bangla word for a friend. It is a common enough expression, sometimes even used to address a complete stranger. The boys at Bondhu work at creating awareness about HIV and AIDS. They distribute condoms, take blood samples and arrange for testing. They visit the cruising areas which men who have sex with men frequent. Here, as elsewhere, since taboos prevent discussions of sexuality, they find it increasingly important to work with marginalised groups. They work with drug addicts, with men who have sex with men and with Hijras. They talk of safe sex. One of them is an artist. Artistic license allows them to say things that would otherwise upset people in the community. They bring out a regular newsletter. They are a fun loving group of young men. Many of them are dancers. One of the areas where they work is Mirpur Mazaar, a shrine. People from afar, entire families, go to Mirpur Mazar to be blessed by the pirs and the shadhus. While the better off see the shrine simply as a place of worship, and recognise it only for its spiritual role, for people who live there, and many others who use the space, the shrine, and indeed spirituality itself, has a much more worldly presence. Mirpur Mazaar is the most popular cruising area in the city. On Thursday nights, there is singing, dancing, smoking hash, sex and the occasional arrests. Shops and small eateries sell incense, flowers, drugs, food, candles and gifts for worship. Both Hindus and Muslims, men and women, come here, and for the Hijras there isn't such a clear divide. It is a hugely tolerant environment. Men, women and children dance together and embrace in public. Joints are shared. The Hijras flirt with abandon. There is much singing and there is smoke, and amidst it all are the quiet places of worship where the devout light candles and place offerings. Bondhu knows it as a place for friendship.