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During
the height of the civil war in northeastern
Srilanka , I was returning to Colombo
from the frontlines, bone tired, numb
and sick of the war. I was travelling
by road and it was a long journey,
made longer by the war. Although I
had been to Sri Lanka dozens of times
by then I had never stopped at Anuradhapura,
that holy site of Sri Lanka's Buddhist
majority. This time, tired as I was,
I decided to stop there enroute. Maybe
I thought I needed a respite, a spiritual
pause, a change from the sound and
smell of carnage. I went to the famous
temple that defines the town looking
for I don't know what.
It
was sundown, the skies were dark orange,
the temple and its worshippers glimmered
in pools of light and dark. Golden
glows from the lamps of worshippers
and the small puffs of smoke they
emitted made the whole scene shift
and shiver in a surreal fashion. And
then I noticed that many of the worshippers
were widows.
And
the war I had come to escape presented
itself to me more starkly than any
image of blood and bone that I had
ever shot.
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